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Some Tips for Making Tonal Adjustments
As you use the Adjustment Panel you'll find that there is some overlap among some of the controls in Aperture. In the Exposure brick there are options to set the overall exposure, as well as the Black point, Recovery and Brightness. A little further down in the panel is the Levels brick where you can also set a black and white point and modify overall brightness. So how do you know which to use?
The more familiar you get with the controls, the more aware you’ll become of the subtle differences. In my workflow I begin by setting the Exposure slider to determine the overall exposure for the image. I try to balance minimizing clipping in the highlights and then the shadows while keeping the majority of the mid range tonalities close to where I’ll want them. Then I use the Recovery slider if I have some highlight clipping to try to reduce or remove the clipping. The Recovery slider is accessing information that was captured by the sensor but is not presently used in the image. It’s different than the Highlight slider which is modifying the lightest 25% of the tones that are visible within the file.
If the image seems overall too dark or too light, I’ll use the Brightness slider.
Deciding to tweak the Black Point slider or set the black point by using Levels is a very image specific choice. Using the Black Point slider affects the black point but has less impact on the rest of the tonalities. If you move the farthest left slider in Levels over to where the data begins in the histogram, more of the tonalities will be affected. That means that when you use the Black Point slider you can see some definitive blacks but you won’t make a lot of the darker tones still darker. However if you set the black point by moving the slider in Levels to where the data begins,more tones will get darker. (Tip: Hold down the Command key while pulling the slider to see a clipping preview and to accurately set the black or white point in Levels or the Exposure brick.)
I opt to use the quarter tone controls in Levels and often bring them inwards a little to increase the midtone contrast. At times I’ll modify the placement of the quarter tone sliders so that they’re closer to the extremes or to the middle. That way I can control the range of tonalities that are becoming more contrasty. (This is similar to changing where you make the points for the S curve in Curves.) To change which tonalities are affected by the quarter tone sliders, hold down the Option key while dragging the slider. I find that I have more control over the midtone contrast that way rather than using the Mid Contrast slider that’s in the Highlight/Shadow brick.
If you have any tips for making tonal adjustments, feel free to post them.

Very informative, thank you.
Excellent ideas Ellen. As a side note, I have found Aperture to be a wonderful program but even using 1/4 tone adjustments are not selective enough. Just yesterday I took a friend's recommendation and downloaded the Viveza plug-in and it is stunning how it allows you to control brightness, contrast and colour in any area you want without creating masks. I spend very little time in Photoshop anymore. Just wish I didn;'t have to use Viveza as an external editor and create all those tiff's :)
Steve.
I'm glad you find the info helpful. It can be confusing at first when you see similar controls/ Steve, I agree wholeheartedly that Viveza is a fantastic program. The localized control and auto masking is pretty amazing when you need it. But obviously it's not necessary on all images. I hear you about the TIFFs, but it's no different than what happens when/if you go to Photoshop. It may not be ideal, but it's still pretty slick.
This article was so full with great information, I had to keep re-reading the paragraphs. But what great info; thanks.
Ellen, one of the greatest strengths of Aperture is the non-destructive edits and the fact that every new photo change doesn't require a HD space gobbling tiff. One of the big reasons I stopped using PS was the difficulty managing all the various files and variations. No everything is in a neat package in Aperture...and much of it referenced of course :) Do you think that Apple will ever incorporate the functionality of plug-ins with the program itself?
Steve, I agree with you completely. There's no way that I could say with certainty what Apple will do, but what I do know is that they are well aware of photographer's desires for the plug-ins to be non destructive just as the adjustments are. (Right after the first plug-ins were announced there was a huge outcry in the forums and the Inside Aperture blog responses for exactly that.) So we have to hope that if it's possible to do it, in due time, it will happen. For now, I've begun to edit a bit more carefully and when I think a plug-in might help, I go ahead and give it a go. If it didn't help significantly, I make certain to cancel it if I realize I don't like it immediately, or delete the version if it takes me a bit to realize I don't like it - since as you point out it's in fact a new converted master file itself - to avoid unnecessary use of the HD. But for those images where I like the results, I just say a thank you that the price of storage has decreased!
Interesting post! Thanks for the sharing. Keep posting.